Goat milk soap in 20 easy steps!

 What is soap? 

Hard & Liquid Fats 
           + Salt     
        +  Water  
       =   SOAP


Is Real Soap dangerous? No!  Think of it like Jell-O. You take Jell-O crystals, add water and it creates  Jell-O, a completely different substance. 

Real Soap is naturally anti-bacterial, anti-viral, and anti-fungal. Soap making is chemistry in action!          

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                                     Why use Real Soap?

-Goat milk soap: Fresh from  the udder to you!
-Happy RFID Chip-free goats do not expose you to RFID
            Chip-induced cancer. 
-Naturally anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-viral. No
             synthetics!
-No chemicals, preservatives, or detergents. 
-Premium oils, essential oils, scents, exfoliates and colors.
-Make the soap you like to use.
-Over 4  hours of labor in each hand-crafted bar!
-No toxic pre-made  bases or poisonous melt-and-pour.
-Handcrafted by American soap  artisans, yourself.
-Eco-Friendly: Does not harm fish or  wildlife.
-Cruelty-free: Choose goats or animals that are
               humanely raised.
-Make a little profit or have goods to barter  with.

NOTE: One of  Hitler’s first orders was to ban soap. He wanted certain groups to look and  smell like animals. It was easier  to get the SS to rid the world of these  ‘animals’ than a clean human.
             
                                      Tools of the Trade

• Gallon Glass Jar with lid, puncture two holes in the lid
• Scale, Digital or Manual
• Bowls-Any kind, various sizes
• Spatula
• Rubber Gloves
• Vinegar to mitigate any burning
• Funnel (Large mouth)
• Exfoliates such as oatmeal, cornmeal, pumice, etc…

• Stick Blender
• Canner (for double boiler)
• Flexible Molds
• Two Blankets
• Various Essential oils or Fragrance Oils
• Herbs
• Clays
• FDA Approved Dyes
• Micas

Step 1: Get out your safety gear. You will need vinegar in case you get soap on  you while making it. Soap burns until you dab vinegar on it or it is saponified  (turned into soap) and you will also need rubber gloves.

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Step 2: Get out your ingredients and measure them; Remember to take the weight  of the container into consideration.

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Step 3: Pour lye into the glass gallon jar. 

Step 4: Make sure you punch two holes in jar lid (This help  pouring and prevents splashing (a safety feature)

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Step 5: Measure out your water

Step 6: Add water to the lye, whisking as you go. You want to dissolve the lye  crystals, just like with Jell-O.

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Step 7: Measure out your oils. In this recipe: palm and coconut oil
 
Step 8: Measure out your olive oil

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Step 9: Melt your hard and liquid oils using double boiler pan method. Make sure  that all your hard fats are melted before proceeding. This picture is almost  ready, but not quite.

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Step 10: Depending upon your recipe cool your fats and lye to 80 degrees (or  what recipe calls for). In any recipe the fats and lye must be within 10 degrees  of each other, high or low, but within 10 degrees. This picture is the cooling  in sinks of cold water.

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Step 11: While your soap is cooling pick out your oils, clays, exfoliates,  herbs, flowers…whatever you are going to put in your soap.

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Step 12: Write down what you soaps you are making and how many and mark on them on a calendar. You think you will remember but you don’t.

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Step 13: Measure out your goat milk. You can use cow milk or any milk but you  need to take in account the butterfat content. The fats must offset your lye to  get a useable product. Remember. This is chemistry in action.

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Step 14: Pour your milk into the lye solution slowly. Mix as you go. This is
what is will look like. If it is orange, it is useable, but scorched. Then  slowly pour the milk-lye into your melted fat pan.

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Step 15: With I stick blender mix about 10-15 minutes until a light trace. Light  trace is when the soap thickens and you make a circle above with the blender and  you can see the trace. You can mix by hand but it takes 5-6 hours and lots of  hands.

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Step 16: Prepare your bowls with your fragrances, clays, herbs, flowers,  exfoliates.

Step 17: Blend well.

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Step 18: Pour into flexible molds. I tried a lasagna pan once but it is hard to  get the soap out. Yes you can use wooden trays but you must line them. I use oil  to coat the trays to make it easier to get the soap out. Make sure all your  trays are labeled.

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Step 19: Cover molds with trays of some kind (be creative)

Step 20: Cover your trays with blankets for 48 hours. After 48 hours you can  unmold your soap.

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Cure your soap 4-12 weeks depending upon what the recipe says.
If it does not say a good general rule is 6 weeks. The more air surface you give  the bar the longer it will last. Some bars can last up to 1 year. 

Polish your soap from soap ash with a wet or dry wash cloth. The ash is  harmless it is part of the saponification process. 

Shrink wrap if desired, but air drying is best!  Enjoy!

Thank you Celeste for another How To......

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