Milk......yummy.....who doesn't have fond memories of cookies and milk? Or the school field trip to the farm? You've dreamed of having fresh, raw milk for a long time, haven't you? Pictures of homemade cheese floating in and out of your daily lives. Homemade soap maybe? YES!
Now you have the chance! Yes! There's a milking doe for sale right now! As you dream of having your own herd to milk, have you thought about udders yet? You've probably heard the terms: fore udder, rear attachments, milk in pounds, & probably even udder sizes. But really, what does all that mean? Medial, Escutcheon, Supernumerary, Pendulous? What? So the udder is huge! Lots of milk you think........ but does udder size matter? How do you know you're getting a good milking goat? There is more to a good milking goat than the udder, but for now let's talk about that magical goat milk dispenser.
Now you have the chance! Yes! There's a milking doe for sale right now! As you dream of having your own herd to milk, have you thought about udders yet? You've probably heard the terms: fore udder, rear attachments, milk in pounds, & probably even udder sizes. But really, what does all that mean? Medial, Escutcheon, Supernumerary, Pendulous? What? So the udder is huge! Lots of milk you think........ but does udder size matter? How do you know you're getting a good milking goat? There is more to a good milking goat than the udder, but for now let's talk about that magical goat milk dispenser.
The udder is an amazing gland...........that's right............it's a gland, actually two mammary glands or halves, that work independently delivering milk through each teat. For a doe to produce milk, they must (usually) be bred first. We will cover that in a later blog, let's just focus on udders for now.
So, what makes an udder a good udder?
Or a bad udder for that matter?
Having heard terms like Medial Suspensory Ligaments or Pendulous Udder how often do you find you think you know what someone is talking about, but not quite? Don't you think learning what to look for would be better than hearing medial suspensory over and over again? Instead of saying terms for this and that, let's see if we can simplify everything shall we?
So, what makes an udder a good udder?
Or a bad udder for that matter?
Having heard terms like Medial Suspensory Ligaments or Pendulous Udder how often do you find you think you know what someone is talking about, but not quite? Don't you think learning what to look for would be better than hearing medial suspensory over and over again? Instead of saying terms for this and that, let's see if we can simplify everything shall we?
The Rule of Thirds?
Rule of Thirds Often when someone is talking about what to look for in a 'good' udder, they bring up thirds. What they mean is just that.......from the side view of a milking doe you want to see one third of the udder behind the leg, one third of the udder hidden by the leg, and one third of the udder in front of the leg.
The other thing you want to see from the side view is the teats. The teats should be on the front third of the udder, teats with a slight angle towards the front of the goat. Especially with a full udder.
The other thing to see is where the udder attaches to the belly of the goat. You want to see a slight incline, gentle slope up to the belly/chest. Pockets are to be avoided.
The other thing you want to see from the side view is the teats. The teats should be on the front third of the udder, teats with a slight angle towards the front of the goat. Especially with a full udder.
The other thing to see is where the udder attaches to the belly of the goat. You want to see a slight incline, gentle slope up to the belly/chest. Pockets are to be avoided.
no fore attachment What's a pocket? It's when the front part of the udder goes straight up and in, vertically to the horizontal angle of the belly/chest of the goat.
Sometimes this 'pocket' is so bad, that there is an actual hollow formed where the udder meets the belly of the goat. This is a sign of poor fore udder attachments, meaning there are loose ligaments in the front with insufficient support for the udder during the milking stage.
Sometimes this 'pocket' is so bad, that there is an actual hollow formed where the udder meets the belly of the goat. This is a sign of poor fore udder attachments, meaning there are loose ligaments in the front with insufficient support for the udder during the milking stage.
Back to the back........
Rear views are as important as the side view. But what do you want to see or not see for that matter? What you want to see is a wide hip/pelvic, and a slight outward curve of the thigh when compared to the width of the goat.
Wider hip/pelvic means that birthing will be easier on the doe - more space. This is a definite plus since you will have to breed her from time to time to maintain a milking doe.
Wider hip/pelvic means that birthing will be easier on the doe - more space. This is a definite plus since you will have to breed her from time to time to maintain a milking doe.
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Escutcheon? That is "the area available at the rump, between the thighs, for the udder's top rear attachments" (from the Illustrated Standard of the Dairy goat). In other words, the escutcheon is the 'frame' for the top of the udder. What you want to see is an 'upside down' U, instead of an 'upside down' V. This shows that the udder attachments are better suited to the dairy side of our Kinders. The higher the 'upside down' U is to the vulva, the better the rear attachments are on the doe.
upside down V; space between legs & udder If the udder is full and you can see the space between the udder and the legs, then the attachments are not the best. On a full udder with visible space between the legs and udder, it will be a 'swinging' udder. This will increase the risk of injury when a goat is out foraging.
Teats from the rear. You want to see the teats from the rear. Ideally you want to see the teats evenly spaced, pointing down. You don't want the teats to be too close to the inner legs. If the teats are too close to the legs, it is harder to milk the doe and increase the risk of mastitis.
Teats from the rear. You want to see the teats from the rear. Ideally you want to see the teats evenly spaced, pointing down. You don't want the teats to be too close to the inner legs. If the teats are too close to the legs, it is harder to milk the doe and increase the risk of mastitis.
Pendulous Udder Pendulous Udder? The definition of pendulous udder is: suspended to swing freely, to hang downward, poised without visible support. So, how does that help you with your milking doe? What you want to see is the udder held up tighter to the doe's body. A good indicator is to look at the udder floor, the bottom of the udder, the udder should be held up above the hocks (knees). If the udder is lower than the hocks, without good side attachments, then you have what is called a pendulous udder. If the udder is TOO low, there will be injuries to the udder, teats, etc. just by letting them forage and they will have problems feeding their kids.
But realize that a high producing doe after many breedings may eventually have their udder floor go below the hocks, but you will still want to see the upper part of the udder with a nice 'upside down' U and no space between the side of the udders and the legs.
But realize that a high producing doe after many breedings may eventually have their udder floor go below the hocks, but you will still want to see the upper part of the udder with a nice 'upside down' U and no space between the side of the udders and the legs.
teats could be farther away from legs Medial Suspensory Ligaments. These ligaments are the mainstay of a good udder. They attach the udder to the pelvic arch. What you will see is a distinct separation of the udder into the two halves, with a slight cleft, (or slight V), in the center where they meet on the udder bottom. Both sides of the udder should be the same size, or as close as possible. If the udder floor (bottom) is flat or rounded downward then there is insufficient medial suspensory ligament support.
Good teats should be a comfortable size for milking, with a visible division from the udder. You want teats that are cylinder shape, not cone shaped. Overly large teats, or unusually small teats, make it harder for kids to nurse or to hand milk. Even more important is the size of the teat orifice (opening where the milk comes out). Small teats can grow and develop some from the first to the second lactation, but small orifices are always small orifices. That takes more effort to get the milk out of the udder, and can be a pain for your hands.
Good teats should be a comfortable size for milking, with a visible division from the udder. You want teats that are cylinder shape, not cone shaped. Overly large teats, or unusually small teats, make it harder for kids to nurse or to hand milk. Even more important is the size of the teat orifice (opening where the milk comes out). Small teats can grow and develop some from the first to the second lactation, but small orifices are always small orifices. That takes more effort to get the milk out of the udder, and can be a pain for your hands.
supernumerary example Supernumerary is a term used for multiple teats, extra teats in fact. Though some instances of
supernumerary can be noted at birth, there are cases when extra teats start growing up to 6 weeks after a kid is born. Though unusual, it does happen. Usually it is due to the combination of recessive genes of a doe and buck. Though there have been cases of it happening solely from the buck's genes or the doe's
genes. Goats (both bucks and does) should have only two
teats. Any more teats and the goat should NOT be used in ANY breeding program. Multiple teats can greatly increase the odds of mastitis, as well as causing milking problems with closed teats or multiple teat openings. Either instance denotes a cull goat.
supernumerary can be noted at birth, there are cases when extra teats start growing up to 6 weeks after a kid is born. Though unusual, it does happen. Usually it is due to the combination of recessive genes of a doe and buck. Though there have been cases of it happening solely from the buck's genes or the doe's
genes. Goats (both bucks and does) should have only two
teats. Any more teats and the goat should NOT be used in ANY breeding program. Multiple teats can greatly increase the odds of mastitis, as well as causing milking problems with closed teats or multiple teat openings. Either instance denotes a cull goat.
A Doe is a Doe is a doe..........
So, here you are with your favorite doe! Oh how sweet she is. You love the milk she gives you and you couldn't part with her if you had too. BUT.........oh, how we hate those buts don't we? Her udder isn't the greatest. So, what do you do? Get rid of her?
Really? Your angel? No, nothing so drastic.
Though we would always love having that perfect udder, sometimes it just doesn't happen. Buying kids it's difficult to gauge an udder when you buy a 8-12 week old doeling.
But there are things you can do to improve your line.
Carefully choose the buck you will breed to your doe.
You want to see the sire's scrotal attachment and the prospective buck as well. You don't want to see a scrotal sac that hangs low, or has a large split in it. Like in a good udder you want the scrotum held high, but not too high, with even sides. Scrotal sac should have a good solid width. You will want to see the dam's udder as well. If you can see that the sire and dam are good quality, that will go a long way to improve on your line. If the potential breeding buck is good as well, then you can be comfortable
knowing the kids will better your line and improve on the udders. Don't save bucklings from a doe with a so-so udder - improve your line through her doelings instead. Now you know what to look for or at least what to avoid.
What are you waiting for? Let's go see that doe!
Really? Your angel? No, nothing so drastic.
Though we would always love having that perfect udder, sometimes it just doesn't happen. Buying kids it's difficult to gauge an udder when you buy a 8-12 week old doeling.
But there are things you can do to improve your line.
Carefully choose the buck you will breed to your doe.
You want to see the sire's scrotal attachment and the prospective buck as well. You don't want to see a scrotal sac that hangs low, or has a large split in it. Like in a good udder you want the scrotum held high, but not too high, with even sides. Scrotal sac should have a good solid width. You will want to see the dam's udder as well. If you can see that the sire and dam are good quality, that will go a long way to improve on your line. If the potential breeding buck is good as well, then you can be comfortable
knowing the kids will better your line and improve on the udders. Don't save bucklings from a doe with a so-so udder - improve your line through her doelings instead. Now you know what to look for or at least what to avoid.
What are you waiting for? Let's go see that doe!
Blessings
Brenda Lee
Very special thanks to Pat Showalter for proofing & assistance!
Brenda Lee
Very special thanks to Pat Showalter for proofing & assistance!
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